Monday, September 5, 2016

Europe 2016: Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Germany

Europe 2016 is on! I'm so excited to be back. It has been two years and I have missed my comfortable haunt. I arrived in Munich on no sleep. Though I usually don't sleep much on international flights, I don't think I have ever gotten absolutely no sleep. Sadly, that's true this time. My seat neighbor, Felix, kept me company during much of the fight. He looks maybe 18 and was actually carded ordering wine! He said he had been married for 5 years so I just had to ask-- 29! Never in a milion years would I have guessed! He said it's his half-Chinese genes. It's something!!

I got off and easily found the signs to the subway, the S-Bahn. I found a ticket machine for the train and subway- piece of cake! Until it wasn't. I had dome some research and ordered a Bayern ticket (covers regional train, metro-Munich subway and I think buses.) My credit card was declined! I was quite irked as I had called a week before to open a travel notice so the credit company knows when I'm traveling and where. Two years ago when I was last in German this happened, and now again. Ok, I can manage, and pulled out my ATM card. It didn't read the strip. The last ATM machine was behind security. Huh.. this is a problem.

Then I remembered that I have 70E left over from my last trip. I always try to have extra cash in Europe for transport to the place I'm staying so I don't have to worry about it after a flight. I dug around my suitcase and found the money and got my ticket. Before leaving the airport, I did find an ATM and took out some $, just in case (I did use it for the Zugspitze ticket, so maybe the CC co was right, when I called, and they said it wasn't an issue on their end but the vendor.) Didn't matter.. I was tired, cranky, hungry and pissy. Bad combo!

I had bought the Bayern (regional) ticket and took the S-Bahn to Hauptbahnhauf, the central train station. From there I went upstairs to find my train. Once again, like in every train station, it's impossible to find the train unless it's the last stop. It wasn't. Thankfully a lady at the ticket counter was helpful and gave me the number (note: when I searched online for transport from Munich to Garmisch, it said to take the RB or the RE trains. Well, that's awesome, but there were over 12 trains with RB or RE in the train ID.

The landscape quickly changed from city to country, with red tile rooftops with 2 story cream-colored houses and dark brown wood trim. Lots of lush green grass and trees, farms-- a lovely taste of shat's to come.

It took a few minutes and a kind taxi driver to find my apartment, which is a five-minute walk from the train. The owner sent me 8 pictures showing me how to get in. It likely would have been easier with sleep. I dropped my bag and checked the weather. I had planned a chill day getting settled in and getting to know the area. Instead, because it was a 20% chance of rain today and 90% for the next two days, I decided to go up the Zugspitze today. I headed to the train station then it started to rain; apparently Mother Nature has a sense of humor. I ran back to get an umbrella and it stopped raining so I headed out.

The Zugspitzebahn (zugspitze train station) is separate from the Bahnhof (train station) but right next to it. Tickets are expensive, $53 Euros, including the train to Eisbee, a town with a beautiful lake, at the base of the Zugspitze, and a cable car to the top. There is a train that goes up as well for an additional cost. The train was around 30 m, then we had a short walk to the cable car. The countryside is simply beautiful, with the mountains looming in the background and houses and farmhouses littering the countryside.

The Zugspitze is the 'Top of German' and the highest peak in the country at close to 3000 meters. It is part of the Alps.

I got to Eibsee and followed the crowd to the cable car. I am very afraid of heights, or more accurately, of falling. Usually I'm fine in glass elevators, ferris wheels and even cable cars. I met my match. This car goes fast! I enjoyed much of the ride (except for the kids bumping into me when I got scared!) but the car does go over two towers and when it does, it fell a bit and sways. I was grateful I had skipped lunch and was even more grateful to arrive.

The views at the top are spectacular. Everywhere around are magestic views of the Alps in an incredible patchwork landscape of different textures and colors. You can see Eibsee lake, many small villages and some crazy suicidal birds that flew so close I felt the air from their wings on my face.

I walked around for an hour and a half or so then hit my max of the elevation, so decided to head down. First I apparently tried to go down the Austrian side (thanks to the lovely lady at the gate, I did not!) then I got into a car happy to get the ride down over with, only to learn I didn't go on that car but took the one to the glacier! I made the most of it and took a couple of pics, and was back on my way-- up. I did go down, bobs and sway included, and was grateful to be back down. I met a nice family from Saudi Arabia on the trip, and a couple from Ohio. The cable car driver had a good laugh at me as I was a bit panic-stricken, and once we got down I laughed too!

I was a bit cross-eyed riding back in the train to Garmisch. Of course that didn't stop me from gabbing with a really nice guy from Spain living in Munich, and we are meeting for a drink on Tuesday. :)

I decided to eat at a highly rated restaurant on Tripadvisor called Zum Wildschutz known for local cuisine. Recommended reservations but did mention that they will fit in people at open spots in tables if folks are open to it. Perfect! My internet isn't working here on my phone so I wandered a bit and stumbled upon it. The architecture is so interesting here, so I enjoyed the walk soaking it all in. But I was quite hungry and ready for a meal. It was early, so I figured I'd be ok. Even so, every table had a reservation sign and they offered me a spot at the bench at the bar.

Very good meal! I got veal sausages with a big heap of sauerkraut, which I love. Yum! Some gruner veltliner white wine of the region (while I prefer reds, there are some great whites!) My full belly made me tired and while I was interested in desert, I had no room so I made my way back. Again, wandering a bit but made it!

Germany is interesting for me to come to as I took four years of German in high school. I sadly didn't keep up with it but I pick up words and phrases as I walk, and in context I can often understand, though really struggle to speak. I also took two years of Spanish so a strange garble of spanish and German comes out of my mouth when I try!

I got back to my room, full and happy and quite exhausted! I started writing but quickly faded and was asleep by 8. Of course that means up at 4 am, strangely, to the sound of cars driving past (I left the window open and it felt so wonderful!) So i got up to finish the blog and learned that my 'tour' was cancelled today. Ugh.. with no notice to plan. It wasn't really a tour but more transportation assistance, so looking into that!

Goodbye for now! Today will be *amazing* and a bucket list day. :)
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1 comment:

Unknown said...

Sam, you are so brave today! Way to go on those elevated glass enclosed cars and do it well. If you can laugh at the end that's a good sign. You are making us hungry from sauerkraut! B&C