I was out late last night and woke up with my phone buzzing (ack!) then from construction nearby. I debated going back to sleep but figured I would get out as I was awake and nap briefly later. I took a free walking tour with Sandemans, given the luck I had with them in Chile. It was just as good. Our guide, Malin, is from Sweden working at a dance education school and doing the tours. She was very personable and gave us a lot of great history.
The tour started in Marienplatz by St Mary's Column. There is a gold statue of the Virgin Mary on top of the column, created to give thanks for the survival of the city after 30 years of war. The Swedish army tried three times to take over the city, and each time it was fended off. The column is surrounded by four statues: a lion, dragon, snake and basilisk symbolizing war, hunger, plague and heresy, all issues during the 30 years war.
There are two town halls that are both gorgeous and a church or the platz (square.) The new town hall was built in 1908 and looks older, but is not. The old town hall (Rathaus) was built in 1397 and looks newer as it was rebuilt after WWII. The new town hall has the Glockenspiel, which is two levels of marionettes that each act out a story with bells and chimes three times a day, at 11, 12 and 5 pm. The top is representative of a wedding and jousting.
At the top of the tower is a statue of a monk (the new Rathaus). Munich had a lot of monks and is named after them (Die Munchen.)
St Peter's church is the oldest in the area, built in 12C. It was destroyed and rebuilt a couple of times, in 1327 after the grat fire in Munich and after the 2nd world war. 82% of Munich buildings were destroyed during the way. The city had pictures of all of the major buildings so they were able to build them back to what they originally looked like. In the window frame of one of the windows in St Peter's church there is a cannonball lodged.
There is a story about why the cross at the top of the chuch faces to the side, and it is said that the cross fell into the courtyard. The monks couldn't find anyone to put it back up, so they went into a beer hall and asked, finding a man drunk enough to be willing-- for the price of a beer. Beer in one hand, heavy cross in the other, he made his way up, placing the cross. He then dropped his beer glass which bounced several times and didn't break. It was a miracle! And is now apparently a holy beer glass.
We then went to the Lion's tower named for Henry the Lion. "White gold" was sold in this area-- salt, used to preserve food. In Viktualienmarkt, 'liquid gold' used to be sold (beer, of course!) Munich is known as the beer capital of europe and possibly where it was founded. the first brewery was created there in around 1200 by monks.
In the center of the market is the May Day pole. Malin told stories about thefts from other communities, to be returned for the price of beer and snacks. The pole is blue and white striping and has pictures from beer-drinking scenes. 5/1, May day, is a holiday. Viktualienmarkt is a food market with over 140 stalls, and it's 22k square meters. There is a biergarten in the center.
We then walked to the Hofbrauhaus, built in 1589 by Duke Wilhelm V. His wedding is depicted in the Glockenspiel. White and brown beer was sold at first, then changed to white when it became popular. Beer because used for women's beauty treatment (though may have been an excuse to just drink beer.) At first you had to be rich/famous/royal to enter, but later it was opened to all. This is the first Hofbrauhaus.
Malin told us a story that they forgot an important construction item- toilets. At first the men had to go outside in a grate, and later they were under the seats so they didn't even have to leave! Then the slanted the floors and would periodically run a large amount of water over the floors to clean them. So, if you were very drunk and didn't move fast enough, you GOT PISSED. Yuck.
We took a break and I got a post card for my nephews. I sadly learned that I didn't buy enough postage for one of the cards I sent so they may not receive it. Maybe someone will be kind.
We saw a cool statue of Kin Maximillian the 1st, who offered free health care, education and beer to all of the people of Munich. Behind his statue was the National Opera house built in 1818. It had large greek columns and had burned down and been rebuilt. Apparently the roof was dome shaped (like a bowl) so water was stored in the top in case of fire. When such a fire happened and they opened the top, nothing happened as it was winter and the water was frozen! They then tried to get water from the river and that was frozen so they went to the next largest source of liquid: Hofbrauhaus. The inevitable happened and people started drinking the free beer so it ended up being a large party with a bonfire. The building was rebuilt again after it was destroyed in WWII.
This is next to the royal residence, home of the royal family until 1918 when it was bombed as it was thought to be a home to the Nazi party. It's now a museum and a theater. Ludwig I built it, though he was forced to give up the throne for a lover who was a dancer. He was married, and it's his wedding depicted in the Glockenspiel. Octoberfest is a celebration of this wedding, originally in October, it was moved to September so the king could hung. 7.7 million liters of beer are drunk every year during Octoberbest. FYI, his grandson was Ludwig II, who built Neuschwanstein.
She talked about how Germany was blamed for WWI and forced to make restitution, causing extreme poverty, job loss, death, etc. Hitler vowed to save Germany. He started a failed revolution called the Beer Hall Putch to try to get people to revolt.
We then went to Odeonsplatz, where there are two lions representing freedom of speech. The lion on one side faces the government and its mouth is open, and on the other side has its mouth closed facing the church.
Last we went to Frauenkirche, or the Ladies' church. It's windy in the area and it is said that the devil was there to investigate the construction. In WWII, the priest of the chuch offered to hide jewish valuables thinking that would be the last place that the Nazis would ever look. They were buried underground and though the build was destroyed, the treasures were found and returned after the war.
I decided to climb St Peter's church, all 300+ steps, for a gorgeous view! It was well worth it with a panoramic view of the city.
Holy moly, try finding food without wheat here! I finally gave in and grabbed a pretzel for breakfast. For lunch I walked around an hour before I found something. There are a lot of italian places, currywurst (curry hotdogs-- I tried one in Berlin and was not impressed! It's a curry-flavored ketchup). I found lunch in a cute little tea shop then took a quick nap before heading out with Maren.
We went to the Oympic stadium and climbed up a big hill to get a gorgeous panoramic view. It was really lovely! Then we took the subway back towards the apartment and Maren showed me a few other historical things and told me the stories. sadly, my pen died so you will have to visit to find out. We went to her old neighborhood to get a greatly local dinner and then headed back. I have a long day tomorrow so signing off-- goodbye from another lovely day in Munich.
ps I was a little nervous renting a room from someone but I'm so glad I did! She is wonderful!!
s
1 comment:
Glockenspiel, love it! Great call. Stunning views and weather, it looks like you left the rain behind. Are you making any purchases or have your eye out for a particular remembrance or souvenir?
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