We woke early again for our guided hike at 8 am. I may have mentioned, but with the exception of the White House Ruin trail, you can only enter the canyon with a guide. We learned that the reason is mostly because the canyon is all private land so you need to know where to go. We were supposed to go with Ben, Adam’s father from the tour yesterday, however, Harris was there instead. He’s a cousin of Adam’s, with a grandmother in common.
Harris is around 35 years old and lived in the canyon with his grandparents until the age of 16. He is one of eight children, 7 boys and the youngest is a girl. He dropped out of school at 16 to leave the reservation to find work to support his grandparents that raised him. He lived outside for 9 years in Phoenix, Las Vegas, Amarillo Texas and in Oregon among other places, then moved home. He then married, and has two boys ages 2 and 4. He lives on his grandmother’s land as his wife’s family lost their land a couple of generations ago, in a card game.
We did the Twin Trails hike on the North Rim of Canyon del Muerto, the northern canyon. It was fairly steep going down, a little more than the hike yesterday, and absolutely beautiful. Off in the distance we could see his grandmother’s land where their summer home is. On the land is a large orchard with apple and peach trees, as well as others. He still plants them and harvests them for his grandmother every year, in order to preserve the old ways.
His mother’s family is Christian, however his grandparents and he were raised in the traditional Navajo way. Harris is a storyteller, and it’s important to him that people know where they came from and their history. He picks plants that his grandmother will use for dyes. His grandparents are 102 (though it is believed that his grandfather is older than his birth certificate, which was an estimate) and his grandmother is 94. As we climbed down into the canyon Harris told us that he climbed the same path every day as a child to go to school. A bus picked him up at the top. He said when he was only a few months old, he was rolled without clothes in the snow. The Navajo do this to strengthen their children. His grandmother would insist that he be strong against the elements, and run in the summer when it hit 100 and go outside to herd sheep in the winter when there was snow on the ground in just a sweater.
His uncle is a medicine man. He explained that there are four kinds. I forget two, but his uncle is two kinds- a stargazer, who uses crystals for their vision, and an ash (something!) that uses the burned pine trees to spread the ask for their visions. He was raised with both Navajo healing and traditional medicine, and uses both as needed.
The Navajo people voted several years ago for the elderly to get a government benefit. However, he told us that many of the young collect as well, instead of working. They wait for their checks twice a month which only total a couple hundred dollars. He believes that many are lazy, and don’t work and feels that it’s largely because they have strayed from the traditional ways. He takes it as his job to teach those who are willing to listen many of the stories and the lessons he learned from his grandmother.
We saw two petroglyphs of coiled snakes, which are a warning symbol. Harris told us about the history as well, which a slightly different slant than we had heard before. I asked him about the word Anasazi, as he used it frequently and mentioned that in Mesa Verde we heard it was being replaced by ‘Ancestral Puebloan’ as Anasazi was deemed to be negative and inappropriate. We had been told the Navajo wanted the change. He laughed and said no, that Anasazi is what the Navajo call the ancient people who lived in this area before them. They were believed to have been from South America and related to the Mayan, Incan and Toltec people. He suggested that the Park Service was dictating the change, and not his people.
We got to the base of the canyon and saw two sets of ruins. In one you could see that much of the cave roof fell, and he told us that the US brought cannons into the canyons and were seeking to destroy the ruins, thinking that the natives lived there. It was really so beautiful there, and though it was a really cold morning, it started warming up beautifully with a nice light breeze flowing through. As we started to climb it got warmer, but was still quite nice for hiking.
We got around halfway up and stopped for a rest and to talk. Harris told us that four of his uncles were Code Talkers though two died during the war. He also told us a few other stories about his family. One was that his great-great-great-great grandmother was kidnapped by the Spanish and held for several years. She had two children with a Spanish soldier, when she escaped barefoot in the winter. She was pregnant when she left, and arrived a couple of months later to the canyon and her family. She had the baby which was Harris’ great-great-great-grandmother. Navajo don’t have facial hair, however, Harris does. He explained that it’s because he does have some Spanish lineage, and said that while many people say they are full-blooded Navajo, he usually doesn’t believe it. When the Spanish invaded the area they raped many of the women, so there is mixed blood.
I asked how the Navajo feel about mixed marriages. He said those raised in the traditional ways usually try to marry within their kind, though not within their clan. On the Christian side of his family, it is very mixed. He said the Navajo still consider them ‘brothers and sisters’ and all are accepted, regardless.
Harris told us that the Navajo and Hopi were contemporaries, and lived in peace (though there are land disputes today.) The Navajo only fought for protection, and it was only the Ute people that sometimes tried to raid. Typically they stayed in CO and UT though. He said that the Navajo knew their priorities, in taking care of and protecting their people. While others are different, their strength was in their unity among the tribe.
When we were close to three quarters of the way up, we saw five horses descending the path. Quite impressive given how steep it is! The guide is his sister-in-law and she had four in her party. They walked their horses down the incline, then were riding a good distance in the canyon to the Mummy Cave and the White House. We saw a rock that had carvings in it from 1959 and 1972. One was from his grandfather, who helped survey they land.
We got to the top and Harris told us stories about herding sheep as a kid and walking them up and down the same path we just took. There was a pond at the top, which is long since dry. He then took us to meet his grandparents, which was a really wonderful experience. He showed us where he lived, and has several horses and sheep. There were more, though no one wanted to herd them any longer. He had several dogs as well. There were four small houses in the immediate area, his, his grandparent’s, a new one he is building for his grandmother, and his auntie’s house. There were probably a dozen nearby, also belonging to family.
His grandmother was absolutely beautiful and waved a greeting. They only speak the Navajo language, so Harris greeted them. His grandfather, at least 102, was napping when we entered but woke up and waved a greeting with a smile. The home had a lot of pictures up of the family, and a stunning one that has won awards of his grandparents in the canyon before the first ruin. It was sepia and taken a couple of years ago. They had a wood stove, a very basic minimal kitchen, and a little storage area.
The homes were all very utilitarian and had the basics. Nothing is done for beautification, and if windows are broken they are patched or boarded. So are walls, so they end up a mix of different materials of wood and metal. The floor was partly linoleum, rug and wood. While some of the homes are nicer, this seems pretty typical of most. His grandmother had a beautiful and ornate jewelry designed of turquoise. Life is hard, but good.
The land is all his grandmother’s, however, she has already signed it over to her oldest daughter. With each generation the land is divided further, however, the family remains in ownership. He said everyone gets some, so there is no reason for land disputes as all will be taken care of. His grandmother had 7 or so children, and he said his family is over 300 people in total!
We thanked them for welcoming us into their house through Harris, then said our goodbyes. He wishes us a wonderful time in the Navajo reservation, and that we should return sometime. There was no mistaking Harris’ house with toys and bikes in the front! I think Harris will do well—he’s hardworking, smart and passionate about his beliefs and history. He shared with us that they were having a family meal tomorrow night for mother’s day, where they would slaughter a sheep. He was responsible for the butchering, so he hoped he remembered what he needed to do from the year before!
We drove off to explore the north rim a bit, and stopped at Mummy Cave Ruin where several mummies were found. It’s believed to be the longest-inhabited place in the Canyon and one of the largest in the area. It was occupied to around 1300 and includes a tower complex believed to have been built by the people who migrated from Mesa Verde in 1280 as it is similar to the design of the ruins found there.
We then visited Massacre Cave. In the winter of 1805 a Spanish military expedition led by Antonio Narbona killed over 100 Navajo who took shelter on the ledge. Shots fired from the rim killed all. The Spanish account was that there were over 90 warriors and 25 women and children, however, the Navajo account states that most of the men were away hunting, so almost all were women, children and the elderly. The overlook is also called Two Fell Overlook as it is said that a brave Navajo woman fell over with a Spanish soldier when trying to defend her people.
We drove back to the RV to make lunch. We saw Howard, who told us Boy was out on a tour of the path and the ruin with a German couple. Sonnie was excited to see us and tried his hardest to steal my lunch again. Little bugger!
I forgot to mention that Harris recommended two authors who have written very authentic accounts of the Navajo working with the tribe for accuracy: Tony Hillerman wrote a bunch of mystery novels, and there's a book called Blood and Sand (forget the author) that is very accurate, in case you want to know more.
Lazy last afternoob here, reading a book, enjoying the sun on short walks. A new family moved in nearby with a kid with a 'radio voice'. He's cute though, so I'll forgive the volume! They went for a walk and Boy trotted on after them after a quick visit with me to escort them. He's a very busy dog! We hit the road tomorrow, so this adventure is coming to an end. It's been a lot of fun! Back in Kanab UT for a little bit to spend time with mom before heading out. So, signing off until the next adventure!!
S
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