So, the day yesterday didn’t end when I said it did. Dad and I decided to check out the walk on the property that leads to the canyon. We leashed up Sonnie, and of we went, accompanied by boy, the dog who lives on the property. Boy was a bit skittish with Sonnie and stayed either a bit ahead, leading the way, or following right behind us. Occasionally he ran off in the woods but never far. Sonnie didn’t appreciate when he was ahead, and just picture an 85 year old man wagging his finger at the ‘young whipper snapper’ and you get the picture. He pulled like all hell to catch up to Boy, and kept trying to run off after him when he left the path.
It was around a mile and a half walk to the canyon, and we walked the rim a little bit. There are ruins there, but the sun was going down quickly and it was reaching the end of how long I feel comfortable walking Sonnie, given his age, so we headed back. Son was quite tired but did great so I think we can do it again tomorrow or the next day. Maybe we’ll even remember our cameras to take pics of the ruins!
Boy is sitting outside with dad, and seems quite content. Dad was about to come in, but Boy pulled out the ‘big guns’ and gave him a belly to rub. How cute! What a great dog he is! Meanwhile, my old man is passed out for a bit. The exercise has been great for him though!!
We got up fairly early this morning for our driving tour with Adam Teller from Antelope House Tours. He was raved about on Tripadvisor, and while there’s a lot of tour options, I love a good objective recommendation, or many! We booked him a couple of weeks ago, and I’m so glad we did! We planned to meet at the visitor’s center at 8. At ten past, he hadn’t arrived, and the woman working behind the desk asked what guide I was booked with and called him. I got on the phone with him. The Park Service shut down the canyon to private vehicles, so we couldn’t do the tour as scheduled. Touring with Adam driving was a bit more, though interestingly, there was another couple who arrived around when we did hoping to schedule with him upon arrival. We talked with them and agreed to share the tour with Adam driving. It was a tight fit in his jeep, but worked well enough and brought the price to be the same as the tour with us driving!
One we got to the floor of the canyon, we understood the reason for the restriction! Right away we were driving in the river, and the water was lapping up on the windshield! Adam followed two other cars and explained that you never want to be the first car in when the water’s high! The first car, which left at 8 (we didn’t leave until 9) got stuck and had to be pulled out. We followed and he stayed back a little ways to determine where the water is higher and lower. It took quite a bit of skill and experience, and he has 30 years worth!
His family is from the canyon, though his grandparents were the last to live there year-round. He has several aunties (they all seem to call them Aunties, and not aunts) and uncles and cousins who live there part of the year. Apparently there’s a land dispute now between an auntie and an uncle over his grandmother’s property. Adam explained that the land is passed down to the oldest female child. Men can own land, however, it’s a negotiation usually. His uncle is fighting for the land, though he has no right. He explained that part of the issue is that his uncle is Christian and not following the Navajo customary ways. The court awarded the land to his auntie, though the uncle is appealing.
We stopped first at two rock art sites, and saw both petroglyphs (carvings) and pictoglyphs (paintings.) Some of the paintings had color as well. The first was a cave high up on the wall. Adam explained the handprints were from Shaman, and there were also negative handprints (where the color was done on the outside of the print, so the print is darker.) There were symbols warning people away, and telling that it’s a holy place. He said that approximately 40 shaman were buried there, mummified by the weather, and there were close to 100 cremated people in pottery. He explained that generally the Navajo won’t touch the pottery sherds for that reason, because they are considered holy.
Then we stopped at another pictoglyph which depicted fighting. There were several horseback riders, some Navajo and some Spanish. Others showed the river, and times of high water and drought. There was a kokopelli on its side, symbolizing times of drought and hardship.
The water was deeper in parts and more shallow in areas, and it was amazing to see him weave around through. We passed a truck that got stuck and someone was helping him out. We then saw several sets of ruins, six in all. He explained that they were once close to ground level near the base of the canyon, just elevated for the water rising and falling. He showed us a dark ring not far below the ruin, indicating this. When I mentioned to him that we were told at Mesa Verde that people rapelled from the top on long ropes, he laughed and said that’s not true. That the people farmed on the riverbed and near it, but lived just above in the cliff dwellings. The dwellings that we saw ranged from 50 rooms to just over 100, and he said they had between 50 and 200 people in them. He also showed in several where there was a quarry not far above it where they cut the rock for the walls. He pointed out the living quarters vs to the storage rooms, which were usually off to the side.
He also shared with us some of the Navajo stories, beliefs and customs. Canyon de Chelly is considered sacred space to the Navajo. He also talked about the current leadership, and that the Navajo have almost exclusive rights of law in the reservation. They choose to follow some Arizona state laws, though, he made a point of saying that they will not abide by the new immigration law! They also do follow daylight savings, unlike the rest of Arizona. He explained that there is a council of 88 people who lead the reservation. There were issues with corruption though, and he said that over half are corrupt. So, an election was held so they decreased the size of the council to 24. The thinking is that families and politics will play less of a role given the small number.
Adam has three children: one is in a local college going to school for Navajo history and anthropology with an interest in becoming a tour guide. Another is in college in Flagstaff, and the last in high school. The youngest also wants to be a tour guide, a point of pride for Adam. His father joined his operation 10 years ago, and he hopes his children will take over the business someday. Adam has a degree in anthropology though studied with a medicine chief for much of his knowledge of his people. We learned that most kids learn the Navajo language in their home, and learn English in school as a second language. Around 70% of the people follow the traditional Navajo way of life. Each family has prayer services twice a year in their home, so they move around. It’s also a way to preserve oral tradition. Around 20% of the people are Christian.
Adam does own some land in the canyon, and we saw it at the end of the tour. It’s right next to the Antelope House ruin, which was rebuilt on the floor of the canyon. There are quite a few pictoglyphs nearby, including antelope, a circle within a circle, which Adam said is the peace accord from the late 1800. He said it essentially means that the Navajo are at peace with the Christians, and will never fight them again. There were river and snake pictures, and some that actually looked like the Moab Man found up in the Moab area. There was also one that looked like a swastika, though it was a little different. I forget what he said it mean but I believe it was something about change. I saw similar ones in NM as well.
Adam got his land from his aunties. They have around 1000 acres and he got 10, because he and his mother approached them and asked for it. They agreed and he owns it, though it will revert back to them or their eldest daughter when he dies. His oldest daughter will get land passed down from his wife’s family. He lives with his wife’s family, as is the custom. So, you’re not only marrying your wife if you’re a Navajo! He doesn’t live in the canyon as a result, but in Chinle. Chinle is the Navajo word for ‘running water’ (though it was pronounced ‘Chin-luh’).
The tour was three hours to the dot and excellent. I’d highly recommend him! The other couple generously paid for our tour, as they said we were so kind to let them join. I had already paid a deposit, and it was incredibly generous of them! I paid the tip, we took some pictures, and we were on our way.
Boy spotted us driving back to our site and joined me and Sonnie as I took him for a short walk, much to Sonnie’s chagrin. He’s too funny! We made lunch and Boy joined us, very well-mannered when we were eating and much better behaved than Sonnie! Dad’s taking a nap now, and then we’ll head out to do the White House ruin hike soon. It’s a mile and a half and supposed to take over two hours, so I suspect it’s a little steep. It’s supposed to hit 76 but with the breeze I think it’ll be good weather.
We hiked down to the White House ruin and the trail was absolutely beautiful. The water and wind etched beautiful ridges into the rocks, which swirled with a red, rust and brown stream flowing down the mountain. The canyon has a lot of green, from trees and shrubs to grass, and it makes a gorgeous contrast with the reds. A pretty steady decline, but switchbacks so it wasn’t too steep. We passed through a field of wild horses, and saw two foals and their moms. The ruin was absolutely beautiful and you can see the white plaster better when up close.
We then came back to the RV to let Sonnie out, and I decided to do the hike off the property to the ruin. Howard said it was a three mile walk, though it felt a bit longer. I was joined by Boy, which was wonderful. We walked a while to the cliff, then the one mile walk down the cliff edge to the spot with the ruin. I decided this would be where I released my (dog) Harmon’s ashes, so he could fly free in the canyon. Boy sat next to me and as hard as it was, it was really beautiful and peaceful too. I carved a little ‘H’ under a nearby tree. I think he would approve, given how much he really loved our RV trip to Moab three years ago. This trip was really planned around this, so I’m glad I got up the nerve to do it! I know he would be happy with my choice as it's really so beautiful here. And it was nice to not do it alone, so thanks to Boy for accompanying me and for giving me lots of kisses. There was a ruin at the end of the hike, and that's where we sat for a while.
We walked back with Boy pretty close to my heels, washed up and I made dinner. Now Dad and I are both pretty tired! I think I’ll pet my dog for a bit, read and head in a little early. We get up early for a hike in the canyon tomorrow with Adam’s father, Ben.
Looking forward to it!!
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