I remember as a little girl seeing a picture of Neuschwanstein castle, a stunning magestic beauty overlooking the Bavarian countryside. That little girl dreamed about seeing it in person and her breath was taken away today seeing it. This is truly a dream come true.
I woke at 4 since I passed out around 8 last night, weary from jet lag and walking around a lot (not to mention my heights panic on the Zugspitze yesterday!) I woke to the sound of pouring rain and cars whizzing by, surprising at that hour. I finished my blog from yesterday and checked messages to find my 'tour' was cancelled today. Thanks for the notice! It wasn't a tour really, but a castle ticket, shuttle and skipping the long lines.. So I was had the time to do some research to figure it out.
I had seen it was going to rain today so I was ready! II had read that there were two buses I had to take and didn't find very clear information except the first bus is the 9609. I can do this! I headed out and the bus stopped at Eichelsbacher Brucke. Ok.. so I saw the bus at the stop already went to Schongau so I hopped on. At a stop in a cute little town the bus driver asked where I was going. Neuschwanstein, I said. No, he said. Schwangau is apparently not the same as Schongau and I was in the wrong place.
The good news from this goof is that i somehow forgot to bring sunscreen, and there was a pharmacy (Apotheke) right at the stop, so I picked some up while I waited. It was windy, cold and dumping rain. The bus picked me up to take me back where I started. I think I lost an hour and a half in this adventure, but oh well. It happens. I met a really nice older gentleman who was trying to help me out when he saw me checking the board. It was funny as he didn't really know where he was going either, so we had a good laugh about it. With my limited German and his limited English (which, as I always find, is so much better than mine!) we managed and got on the same bus, though he left earlier. And yes, turns out I was to stay on that bus I was on originally. :)
The countryside is just beautiful. The drive was quite pleasant to look out the window. I was sad I couldn't take pics as there was rain on the window.
I waited in line for around an hour and talked with a wonderful family from Buenos Aires. They gave me some scoop for a future trip, which is awesome! I grabbed a sandwich and ate it by the lake (note: it's hard to find 'grab and go' food without eating wheat, so I'm cheating a bit!) I took the shuttle up the high hill and was glad as there was a good bit of steep walking even still. I first went to the Marienbrucke (Marien bridge) with the most incredible views of the castle. That's where the 'money shot' is from, down below. I climbed down and headed over to the castle, stopping every minute to snap a picture as it's so breath-taking.
I was scheduled for the tour at 1:55 (you can only view inside with a tour) and the qeue was prompt, offering only a five-minute window for your ticket. No photos inside, as with many historic places.
http://www.neuschwanstein.de/deutsch/ludwig/biograph.htm
Neuschwanstein was built in 1869 by King Ludwig and was construction ended in 1896 with his death. He was only 40 and drowned in a lake in Munich under suspicious circumstances. Only a third of the interior was complete. We walked up a high winding staircase to the first floor, which was the servant's quarters. We went up three floors with a total of around 130 steps.
On the second floor there were many painted frescos on the walls and the ceilings had a gothic arch to them, and were all painted. In the throne room there was a huge brass chandelier that weighs 2000 lbs. And no throne as they didn't get to it before the king died. his bedroom woodwork was impressive and took over 4 years to carve. The Canopy over the bed was extensively carved and there is even a secret door which looks like a solid wood panel, leading to the salon and dressing room. There is a painting of Tristan and Isolde on the wall.
Apparently Ludwig like swans, and you could say he was obsessed with them. There is a room with the image of over 120 swans there.
The entire castle was heated and he had running water. One of the rooms even had electric lights and the castle had one of the first phones in the area. One of the rooms looked like a small cave complete with stalactites. There were little areas open to the outside with a sitting area and flowers as offshoots of the cave. It was interesting.
We toured several other rooms and then the tour was over, in about 35 minutes. I went back outside and soaked it all in again, taking my time wandering around the castle and leaving.
I wandered around the town a little bit and decided to get a glass of wine and look at the castle while waiting for the return bus. The return trip wasn't quite as dramatic, and I switched busses successfully (apparently the 9609 goes straight through, but there is another you can take for part of the ride as well.) I was quite tired but managed to stay awake. It was funny as two guys who got on my stop and chatted with me a little got back on the same bus. They recognized me and said hi-- small world! I also forgot to mention that I ran into the couple from Ohio on my tour. Funny how that stuff happens.
I was too tired for a sit-down dinner and not very hungry, so I grabbed a snack at a grocery store I found yesterday (which I found again in only two wrong turns!) Now I try to stay awake for a bit longer so I hopefully am not up at 4 am again!
Wish me luck! s
ps the other castle is Hohenschwangau (also the name of the town.) I didn't have time to tour that one but loved the outside!
Monday, September 5, 2016
Europe 2016: Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Germany
Europe 2016 is on! I'm so excited to be back. It has been two years and I have missed my comfortable haunt. I arrived in Munich on no sleep. Though I usually don't sleep much on international flights, I don't think I have ever gotten absolutely no sleep. Sadly, that's true this time. My seat neighbor, Felix, kept me company during much of the fight. He looks maybe 18 and was actually carded ordering wine! He said he had been married for 5 years so I just had to ask-- 29! Never in a milion years would I have guessed! He said it's his half-Chinese genes. It's something!!
I got off and easily found the signs to the subway, the S-Bahn. I found a ticket machine for the train and subway- piece of cake! Until it wasn't. I had dome some research and ordered a Bayern ticket (covers regional train, metro-Munich subway and I think buses.) My credit card was declined! I was quite irked as I had called a week before to open a travel notice so the credit company knows when I'm traveling and where. Two years ago when I was last in German this happened, and now again. Ok, I can manage, and pulled out my ATM card. It didn't read the strip. The last ATM machine was behind security. Huh.. this is a problem.
Then I remembered that I have 70E left over from my last trip. I always try to have extra cash in Europe for transport to the place I'm staying so I don't have to worry about it after a flight. I dug around my suitcase and found the money and got my ticket. Before leaving the airport, I did find an ATM and took out some $, just in case (I did use it for the Zugspitze ticket, so maybe the CC co was right, when I called, and they said it wasn't an issue on their end but the vendor.) Didn't matter.. I was tired, cranky, hungry and pissy. Bad combo!
I had bought the Bayern (regional) ticket and took the S-Bahn to Hauptbahnhauf, the central train station. From there I went upstairs to find my train. Once again, like in every train station, it's impossible to find the train unless it's the last stop. It wasn't. Thankfully a lady at the ticket counter was helpful and gave me the number (note: when I searched online for transport from Munich to Garmisch, it said to take the RB or the RE trains. Well, that's awesome, but there were over 12 trains with RB or RE in the train ID.
The landscape quickly changed from city to country, with red tile rooftops with 2 story cream-colored houses and dark brown wood trim. Lots of lush green grass and trees, farms-- a lovely taste of shat's to come.
It took a few minutes and a kind taxi driver to find my apartment, which is a five-minute walk from the train. The owner sent me 8 pictures showing me how to get in. It likely would have been easier with sleep. I dropped my bag and checked the weather. I had planned a chill day getting settled in and getting to know the area. Instead, because it was a 20% chance of rain today and 90% for the next two days, I decided to go up the Zugspitze today. I headed to the train station then it started to rain; apparently Mother Nature has a sense of humor. I ran back to get an umbrella and it stopped raining so I headed out.
The Zugspitzebahn (zugspitze train station) is separate from the Bahnhof (train station) but right next to it. Tickets are expensive, $53 Euros, including the train to Eisbee, a town with a beautiful lake, at the base of the Zugspitze, and a cable car to the top. There is a train that goes up as well for an additional cost. The train was around 30 m, then we had a short walk to the cable car. The countryside is simply beautiful, with the mountains looming in the background and houses and farmhouses littering the countryside.
The Zugspitze is the 'Top of German' and the highest peak in the country at close to 3000 meters. It is part of the Alps.
I got to Eibsee and followed the crowd to the cable car. I am very afraid of heights, or more accurately, of falling. Usually I'm fine in glass elevators, ferris wheels and even cable cars. I met my match. This car goes fast! I enjoyed much of the ride (except for the kids bumping into me when I got scared!) but the car does go over two towers and when it does, it fell a bit and sways. I was grateful I had skipped lunch and was even more grateful to arrive.
The views at the top are spectacular. Everywhere around are magestic views of the Alps in an incredible patchwork landscape of different textures and colors. You can see Eibsee lake, many small villages and some crazy suicidal birds that flew so close I felt the air from their wings on my face.
I walked around for an hour and a half or so then hit my max of the elevation, so decided to head down. First I apparently tried to go down the Austrian side (thanks to the lovely lady at the gate, I did not!) then I got into a car happy to get the ride down over with, only to learn I didn't go on that car but took the one to the glacier! I made the most of it and took a couple of pics, and was back on my way-- up. I did go down, bobs and sway included, and was grateful to be back down. I met a nice family from Saudi Arabia on the trip, and a couple from Ohio. The cable car driver had a good laugh at me as I was a bit panic-stricken, and once we got down I laughed too!
I was a bit cross-eyed riding back in the train to Garmisch. Of course that didn't stop me from gabbing with a really nice guy from Spain living in Munich, and we are meeting for a drink on Tuesday. :)
I decided to eat at a highly rated restaurant on Tripadvisor called Zum Wildschutz known for local cuisine. Recommended reservations but did mention that they will fit in people at open spots in tables if folks are open to it. Perfect! My internet isn't working here on my phone so I wandered a bit and stumbled upon it. The architecture is so interesting here, so I enjoyed the walk soaking it all in. But I was quite hungry and ready for a meal. It was early, so I figured I'd be ok. Even so, every table had a reservation sign and they offered me a spot at the bench at the bar.
Very good meal! I got veal sausages with a big heap of sauerkraut, which I love. Yum! Some gruner veltliner white wine of the region (while I prefer reds, there are some great whites!) My full belly made me tired and while I was interested in desert, I had no room so I made my way back. Again, wandering a bit but made it!
Germany is interesting for me to come to as I took four years of German in high school. I sadly didn't keep up with it but I pick up words and phrases as I walk, and in context I can often understand, though really struggle to speak. I also took two years of Spanish so a strange garble of spanish and German comes out of my mouth when I try!
I got back to my room, full and happy and quite exhausted! I started writing but quickly faded and was asleep by 8. Of course that means up at 4 am, strangely, to the sound of cars driving past (I left the window open and it felt so wonderful!) So i got up to finish the blog and learned that my 'tour' was cancelled today. Ugh.. with no notice to plan. It wasn't really a tour but more transportation assistance, so looking into that!
Goodbye for now! Today will be *amazing* and a bucket list day. :)
s
I got off and easily found the signs to the subway, the S-Bahn. I found a ticket machine for the train and subway- piece of cake! Until it wasn't. I had dome some research and ordered a Bayern ticket (covers regional train, metro-Munich subway and I think buses.) My credit card was declined! I was quite irked as I had called a week before to open a travel notice so the credit company knows when I'm traveling and where. Two years ago when I was last in German this happened, and now again. Ok, I can manage, and pulled out my ATM card. It didn't read the strip. The last ATM machine was behind security. Huh.. this is a problem.
Then I remembered that I have 70E left over from my last trip. I always try to have extra cash in Europe for transport to the place I'm staying so I don't have to worry about it after a flight. I dug around my suitcase and found the money and got my ticket. Before leaving the airport, I did find an ATM and took out some $, just in case (I did use it for the Zugspitze ticket, so maybe the CC co was right, when I called, and they said it wasn't an issue on their end but the vendor.) Didn't matter.. I was tired, cranky, hungry and pissy. Bad combo!
I had bought the Bayern (regional) ticket and took the S-Bahn to Hauptbahnhauf, the central train station. From there I went upstairs to find my train. Once again, like in every train station, it's impossible to find the train unless it's the last stop. It wasn't. Thankfully a lady at the ticket counter was helpful and gave me the number (note: when I searched online for transport from Munich to Garmisch, it said to take the RB or the RE trains. Well, that's awesome, but there were over 12 trains with RB or RE in the train ID.
The landscape quickly changed from city to country, with red tile rooftops with 2 story cream-colored houses and dark brown wood trim. Lots of lush green grass and trees, farms-- a lovely taste of shat's to come.
It took a few minutes and a kind taxi driver to find my apartment, which is a five-minute walk from the train. The owner sent me 8 pictures showing me how to get in. It likely would have been easier with sleep. I dropped my bag and checked the weather. I had planned a chill day getting settled in and getting to know the area. Instead, because it was a 20% chance of rain today and 90% for the next two days, I decided to go up the Zugspitze today. I headed to the train station then it started to rain; apparently Mother Nature has a sense of humor. I ran back to get an umbrella and it stopped raining so I headed out.
The Zugspitzebahn (zugspitze train station) is separate from the Bahnhof (train station) but right next to it. Tickets are expensive, $53 Euros, including the train to Eisbee, a town with a beautiful lake, at the base of the Zugspitze, and a cable car to the top. There is a train that goes up as well for an additional cost. The train was around 30 m, then we had a short walk to the cable car. The countryside is simply beautiful, with the mountains looming in the background and houses and farmhouses littering the countryside.
The Zugspitze is the 'Top of German' and the highest peak in the country at close to 3000 meters. It is part of the Alps.
I got to Eibsee and followed the crowd to the cable car. I am very afraid of heights, or more accurately, of falling. Usually I'm fine in glass elevators, ferris wheels and even cable cars. I met my match. This car goes fast! I enjoyed much of the ride (except for the kids bumping into me when I got scared!) but the car does go over two towers and when it does, it fell a bit and sways. I was grateful I had skipped lunch and was even more grateful to arrive.
The views at the top are spectacular. Everywhere around are magestic views of the Alps in an incredible patchwork landscape of different textures and colors. You can see Eibsee lake, many small villages and some crazy suicidal birds that flew so close I felt the air from their wings on my face.
I walked around for an hour and a half or so then hit my max of the elevation, so decided to head down. First I apparently tried to go down the Austrian side (thanks to the lovely lady at the gate, I did not!) then I got into a car happy to get the ride down over with, only to learn I didn't go on that car but took the one to the glacier! I made the most of it and took a couple of pics, and was back on my way-- up. I did go down, bobs and sway included, and was grateful to be back down. I met a nice family from Saudi Arabia on the trip, and a couple from Ohio. The cable car driver had a good laugh at me as I was a bit panic-stricken, and once we got down I laughed too!
I was a bit cross-eyed riding back in the train to Garmisch. Of course that didn't stop me from gabbing with a really nice guy from Spain living in Munich, and we are meeting for a drink on Tuesday. :)
I decided to eat at a highly rated restaurant on Tripadvisor called Zum Wildschutz known for local cuisine. Recommended reservations but did mention that they will fit in people at open spots in tables if folks are open to it. Perfect! My internet isn't working here on my phone so I wandered a bit and stumbled upon it. The architecture is so interesting here, so I enjoyed the walk soaking it all in. But I was quite hungry and ready for a meal. It was early, so I figured I'd be ok. Even so, every table had a reservation sign and they offered me a spot at the bench at the bar.
Very good meal! I got veal sausages with a big heap of sauerkraut, which I love. Yum! Some gruner veltliner white wine of the region (while I prefer reds, there are some great whites!) My full belly made me tired and while I was interested in desert, I had no room so I made my way back. Again, wandering a bit but made it!
Germany is interesting for me to come to as I took four years of German in high school. I sadly didn't keep up with it but I pick up words and phrases as I walk, and in context I can often understand, though really struggle to speak. I also took two years of Spanish so a strange garble of spanish and German comes out of my mouth when I try!
I got back to my room, full and happy and quite exhausted! I started writing but quickly faded and was asleep by 8. Of course that means up at 4 am, strangely, to the sound of cars driving past (I left the window open and it felt so wonderful!) So i got up to finish the blog and learned that my 'tour' was cancelled today. Ugh.. with no notice to plan. It wasn't really a tour but more transportation assistance, so looking into that!
Goodbye for now! Today will be *amazing* and a bucket list day. :)
s
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