Wednesday, May 5, 2010
Canyon de Chelly
We drove by the Four Corners Monument again (grumble) and headed through Arizona. Much of the drive was really barren and desolate. We stopped for a break at a gas station and treated us to a piece of Navajo Fry Bread from a little stand with two women working in it. Sonnie, er, relieved himself nearly, so I did feel a little bit obligated!
Once we got towards the Chinle area the landscape changed, and we were surrounded by gorgeous bright red flowing rock all around. We drove through two tiny little towns to Chinle, which is also a tiny little town with not much to see. We stopped at the Canyon de Chelly Visitor’s Center, ran in to get a map, and headed to the canyon. We are staying at the Spider Rock Campground—this one does have potable water and solar showers, and from what I read, a hilarious attendant. I spoke with him and look forward to meeting him. There was no one here when we got here, but a board had our spot marked on it. We were greeted by a sweet and very affectionate dog, and noticed a sign saying that if we feed the reservation dogs, we own them! Um.. guess this guy isn’t eating from my hand! He looks well cared for though, so I wasn’t too upset (yes, I’ve had a tough time with that, especially up in Monument Valley with the three dogs patrolling the visitor’s lot.)
Our spot is a nice little place surrounded by trees, with a little fire pit and a picnic table. Sonnie approved. It’s supposed to be in the high 70s today and while it feels it in the sun, it’s gorgeous in the shade with a nice breeze. We have all the windows open and are quite comfortable. I’m sure we’ll be ok leaving Sonnie in the RV during our tours.
Well, off to explore…
We drove down the south rim of the Canyon. First we went to the Spider Rock Overlook, and Face Rock Overlook. Both were really beautiful though I loved the ‘hoodoos’ of Spider Rock overlook. There’s a large relatively thin rock in the center of the canyon that reaches up, almost to the top of the canyon. The canyon consists of lovely shades of red, rust, brown and tan, and the bottom has a really small river running through. There’s a lot of trees and grass on the bottom as well, so it’s quite beautiful.
We then drove to see the Sliding House Overlook, which is a cliff dwelling towards the bottom of the canyon where much of the rock overhang fell, and looks like it took a bit of the ruin with it. The White House is beautiful, and has a set of ruins on the bottom of the canyon, and one not too far up the rock wall. It’s called the White House because the top level of the top ruin is covered in white plaster. We’re going to hike down to it tomorrow. We stopped at the Junction Overlook, Tunnel Overlook and Tsegi Overlook as well to enjoy the most beautiful views. I think this is even prettier than the Grand Canyon, which I love.
The man who lives here and runs the campground still wasn’t here when we got back, but his nephew was. We stopped to talk with him for a bit. We learned the dog’s name is ‘boy’, and there’s a really beautiful Bengal-looking cat with wild tiger stripes here now. Very talkative and decided to stretch using my leg as a post with full claws out! Ouch! We pet them for a bit and learned that Howard feeds them (the nephew stopped short of saying that they are his, but that he feeds them.) They both look pretty well cared for though.
The winds really picked up and were quite gusty by the time we hit the Tunnel overlook. There’s a short but steep trail down to a little metal ladder, which has a sign that you cannot continue down the stairs without a guide. I stood on the landing and took some pictures of the beautiful view. There are Navajos selling their crafts at every stop. I spoke with a man named Henry at the Spider Rock Overlook. He made the dream catchers, did the carvings in stone, and his auntie and mother did the jewelry. The stone carvings were really beautiful, and he took some time to explain what the symbols meant. They included things like corn, antelope, lightening, many circles within circles symbolizing many generations, the healing hand, the world and the four directions, and a solid circle within a circle symbolizing the ancient people and the Navajo. There were others as well. We liked them so much we made some purchases, and I bought a dreamcatcher as well. I do have one, but this one was really detailed and beautiful. He explained the story that dream catchers are designed to catch bad dreams, but good ones can go through. There were feathers and wood in each of the four directions, and there were tools sewn into it to use to fight the bad dreams away. It was really beautiful.
Some of the other people selling things had beautiful things, including painted stones and painted jars. They were all assertive but not pushy. Going to get dinner started soon. We have an early day tomorrow, with a driving tour of the canyon schedule at 8 with a guide that was highly recommended on tripadvisor. I love that site! We did early tours as we were unsure of the temperatures, and I was concerned leaving Sonnie in the RV if it got too hot. Given the cool mornings and the breeze, I suspect he’ll be fine. Should it get warm, we’ll just take him on our drives.
Howard just came by to collect the money we owe, and to say hello. Boy is at his side, and just rolled on his back for belly rubs. What a sweet dog. Howard is a character, and a nice guy. Gave us some suggestions, and told us about the walking trail on the property. It's a 3 mile round trip walk, going to the cliff and ruins. Can't wait, nor can Sonnie!
Signing off…
Tuesday, May 4, 2010
Mesa Verde
Monday, May 3, 2010
Four Corners Adventures- Day 3
Four Corners Adventures- Days 1 & 2: Monument Valley
It’s been three years since Dad and I went on an RV adventure, so we were long overdue. I packed up the dog and drove up to Kanab UT for the latest adventure. Sonnie, my dog, was quite excited, though I’m not sure he knew why. He did get a car ride, though, which he loves! He was positively drooping by the end of the almost six hour drive, but no worries! He sure perked up when we got there!
I got the RV packed up with my things and the groceries I brought. Went to the store for the last minute critical items (ice cream!) and were early to bed. We got a nice an early start, and off we went! Sonnie was snuggled comfortably in the backseat, enjoying the open windows in the back of my dad’s truck for sight-seeing. We stopped at the Navajo National Monument for a break, walked Sonnie and went into the visitor’s center. We decided to walk one of the trails and got to see some amazing little ruins under a cliff overhang. They are called Batatakin, and are one of the largest cliff dwellings of the ancestral Puebloan people. It was inhabited for only a short time between 1250 and 1300 AD. I believe I read that based on tree rings, they found that there was a 30 year drought that likely drove them out among other possibilities such as social, religious and other pressures. The visitor’s center had some pottery, and a Hogan set up (one inside and one outside) like it would have been years ago.
There is another ruin, the largest cliff dwelling in Tsegi Canyon called Keet Seel. It’s beautiful and rather large. It’s also a 5+ hour hike, so we didn’t go to see it. Batatakin is a smaller version of it, and was quite a treat following a walk of under a mile. Betatakin means ‘ledge house’ and Keet seal is from an altered Navajo word meaning ‘broken pottery scattered around. The village also have Hopi names, Talastima and Kawestima. The people who lived here are called the Hisatsinom by the Hopi, and Ansazi by the Navajo, though modern descendants of these people go by the term “Ancestral Puebloans.” The cultural subgroup of people who live in this vicinity are known as Kayenta, which is also the name of the town close to Monument Valley.
We headed onward to Monument Valley, passing through the small town of Kayenta. Nothing much to say about it! Approaching Monument Valley was beautiful, and somewhat like approaching Sedona AZ in that you get a flash of bright red color here and there, then all of a sudden it opens in front of you with a beautiful landscape with shades of reds, oranges and browns. Bright blue sky, puffy white clouds. As alert as Sonnie was for the whole drive, he really pooped out and I have a great pic of him snoozing just as it was getting beautiful.
We got pseudo-directions at the entrance gate, paid our fee and were on our way. But we had no clue and saw the visitor’s center, so we went in there figuring we could go to the information center. It’s huge and really nice with a glorious view of the buttes and mesas of Monument Valley. We went in to find the visitor’s information center is closed, yes closed, on Saturdays and Sundays. Spectacular! We took in the views then went back to the RV. I couldn’t help but give some treats to the two dogs roaming the lot, then we went to a lot that we suspected was the ‘primitive’ Navajo campground. Yup, two little porta-pots and a couple of picnic benches. But, it has the most glorious views!
We got set, grabbed a quick bite and decided to do the 17 mile loop around the park before it got to late. We were glad we did as it took a couple of hours to navigate the rather pitted roads. Good thing for trucks! The drive was amazing and yes, I took lots of pictures! We stopped a bit to take it all in, then headed back to the RV. The wind is blowing and is quite loud, but at least the rain held off. It was supposed to rain all weekend, and now just tomorrow is scattered thundershowers. I’ll take it!
Only a few RVs are in this park so it’s pretty quiet (well, except for the wind!) There’s a few tents as well, which are obviously quite tough people! Given the weather expected tomorrow, they’re gutsy!
I’m sure it’ll be an early night for all of us. Sonnie’s hurting a bit and is limping on a back leg. I don’t have enough of his arthritis meds for the entire trip, so going to try to find a vet in the next town if we can. He’s a trooper though, and is trying to play fetch in our little RV!
Tomorrow we’ll explore the area a bit more, doing some driving in areas north of the park. There’s supposed to be some smaller parks in the area that are quite beautiful. Overall, it was a nice drive and not all that far.. around 4 hours to get here, even with the stop. The ride was beautiful in parts, too.
I just read that the Navajo reservation is close to 25,000 square miles, and is the largest Native American reservation. Over 200,000 Navajos live here. Amazing considering the landscape: beautiful, but quite desolate. Scattered with small, mostly rickety-looking buildings. A good number of horses, donkeys and cows grazing, and lots of areas set up for Navajo crafts to be sold. Interestingly, alcohol is banned from the reservation, though there is a significant issue with drunk drivers here.
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Also known as Snow and Other Four-Letter Words!
This post will be liberally sprinkled with four-letter words! Sonnie woke up around 6 today needing to be one with nature. I got up to let him out with Dad helping him down the stairs. It was pouring, but we expected scattered thundershowers today so that was ok. Sonnie attended to his business, and Dad let us back up. I decided to try to go back to sleep to the sound of pouring rain. I woke again to hearing the sound of quiet and thought “cool! It’s clear out.” Opened the curtain to ‘@#%” Well, not exactly, but another four letter weather word: SNOW.
Um, #$%&. What the hell is a girl now from Phoenix going to do with @$%^. I mean, snow. I didn’t exactly prepare for it either. The weather was supposed to be in the high 50s today with lows in the high 30s, so I brought a pair of jeans, a pair of pants, a sweatshirt and a sweater thinking that I had WAY overpacked with warm clothes. BAH! Hopefully it’ll start clearing as the temps increase today, but we’ve gotten a good 3-4 inches in just a few hours.
Sonnie decided mid-morning he needed another nature break, so out I went after bundling up in as many layers as I could find. Thankfully I brought a water-resistant soft shell! I wasn’t sure if he’d ever seen the snow, and he loved it. He was rescued from the Tucson pound two-and-a-half years ago so he may have seen snow if he lived in the outskirts. He went trotting away snapping at the snow and seeming quite happy with himself. Then he got to write his name in it! The joys of being a boy, I suppose.
He wanted to walk a bit but I didn’t, so back to the RV we went, where I will stay hidden and bundled until we leave this hellhole. Frozen hellhole that is!
Had planned to check out some of the surrounding little parks and areas. Dad just mentioned that he’d like to get information on how bad the snow is around, and said ‘hey, let’s go to the information center.’ HA! It’s closed.
A dozen or so other RVs came in during the evening and they are all still here. I’m just glad we’re not in a tent! There were three or four outside last night!
Sonnie seems to feel better today too and is moving around a bit more than he was. He was limping and his back leg was pretty stiff. I unfortunately didn’t bring enough of his arthritis pain meds, so if we’re able to leave here tomorrow I’ll try to track down a vet in a nearby town to see if we can get some.
So, unsure if we’ll get stuck here, or if we’ll be able to move on tomorrow morning as planned. Good thing I have a few good books! I guess it’ll be an adventure! @#$%&! :o) All part of the fun of travel and hey, beats getting stuck in an airport!!
mid-day update: More snow!!!! 6 inches!! Spoke with a guy in one of the other RVs, took some pics, took a very happy dog for a romp and bio break, then ran back in shivering. Dad dug out the truck. Hoping we can leave tomorrow! The pop-out is covered in snow which may pose an issue. Guess we’ll see, nothing we can do about it!! At least the white out conditions are over, and the slow is slowing up a bit. Hopefully for good. One of the dogs from the visitor’s center appeared in the campground, the black and tan with long fur. Poor thing was soaked and patrolling the place.
At least I can see the beautiful buttes now, covered in snow. Interestingly the weather on the radio is declaring a high of 56 in Kayenta and scattered rain showers. Really? We have seen rain since 6 am! No mention of snow at all in the four corners area. Very strange.
It’s now early evening around 6, and the snow has stopped and it’s warmer out. What’s that mean? MUD. Lots and lots of mud. Should be an interesting time getting the RV out of here tomorrow, but at least we plan to leave early when it’ll be frozen so hopefully it’ll be easier. We settled in during the afternoon to read and both napped a bit so we should be well rested for the trip tomorrow!
The buttes look beautiful now, covered in snow. Another big RV is coming in now, struggling in the mud but making it’s way ok. It’s been a nicely relaxing day, much more so than planned but that’s ok. Part of the adventure of traveling.
Mud, More Mud, and oh @#$% Where’d the Dog Go?
Eventually all good things must end, and Sonnie heard the call of nature. I looked out the window, and the beautiful snow was replaced by a beautiful gelatinous glop of red mud. Well, duty calls. Thankfully I brought my Keen sandals. Oh what a sight in fleece pjs, keens and socks, gloves and a softshell jacket. Oh yeah! Dad lifted him down the stairs and all I heard was ‘splut’ as Sonnie sunk in the mud. We walked a few feet and lower and lower he went. “Um, how about you go potty, big guy, before I lose you in this?” No one loves dragging me across wide open spaces quite like Sonnie, but as the mud raised to his belly, I think he thought better of it and decided to go for it with a gusto. We had towels at the ready when he was up in the RV, and did the best I could rubbing him down to clean him off. I just can’t wait until the next potty break. Maybe he can make it until morning. Maybe?
Sunday, April 11, 2010
'I got problems'
Seeking warmth in CO
We had planned to camp but the temperature really dipped low in the late afternoon, so I bundled up shivering and we stayed put. He decided to play a little game of going in and out of our rooms to do his best to avoid sleep. I read him a story to no avail, and finally turned out the light! He's now sitting on my lap watching me type being really good, though I know he's waiting for the moment when youtube can come back on with Thomas..