Valparaiso, Day 1

We flew back to Santiago and a driver took us to the high-rise apartment we stayed at earlier in our trip. We got a different room, which at least smelled better. Thankfully! He never talked about payment (he was to charge us when we got there, though we never met him. And given how misleading his descriptions/pictures of the places were, I didn't bring it up. Curious if he will. If he doesn't charge us for this last night (only $55 anyways and he upgraded us to a two bedroom) then I won't file a complaint!)

We went on a search for a restaurant trying first to go to Sur Patagonico again but it was closed. We found a little casual place and ate outside. It was very basic, inexpensive and ok. We went back to the hotel and fell asleep after midnight (we didn't get in until after 9 pm.)

We woke fairly late, just before 9 and headed out quickly. We took a taxi to the Bus terminal Alameda, which goes to Valparaiso. Our driver pulled into an area for taxis with metal fences around the cars, and suggested we walk around and he would hand over the bags, so I ran around. It was very kind of him as there was little room to navigate our suitcases through to get to the station.

There are two bus options, Tur and Pullman, both of which go to Valpo every 15 minutes or so and are around $6. We chose Pullman because it was closer to where we were standing. Tough decision. It took two tries but we got on the right bus (uneventful this time!) It took around an hour and a half. the mountains looked so close and were beautiful, and we passed through the Cassablanca region with a lot of vineyards for white wines.

We got to the station and got a taxi to our hotel, Ibis. It's right on the water near the port and Plaza Sotomayor. Not a bad location. It's a very modern business hotel-- not a lot of character but comfortable. The room is a decent size, free wifi, overlooks the city and the water. It's right near the train which is surprisingly not loud. We hear some background noise in the room but nothing too bad.

We quickly unpacked and headed out to grab some breakfast/lunch. We headed ten minutes to Plaza Anibal Pinto, where the free walking tour starts that we are taking at 3, and where a recommended restaurant is. We couldn't find the restaurant (yes, we walked right past it!) and went into a place on the Square. Lunch was very unimpressive. We got sandwiches and it was thin white bread toasted on one side. I got a double espresso and Kim got her coke zero. Fully leaded up, we walked around the square a bit then met the guide.

Felipe was great and spoke incredible English. he learned watching television, then majored in English and tries to find work translating. We watched a cute little old woman feeding the many dogs in the square, then the pigeons, then filling some water jugs with the top cut off for the dogs. Felipe explained that the strays are cared for by the people, like in Santiago. People build emergency shelter for them in the winter, feed and leave water out, and even dress them in jackets when it's cold.

Felipe cautioned us about taking taxis, that we should ask for the fare before we start. If the driver knows we don't know where we are going, he will drive around and charge much more.

Valparaiso was never actually a founded city. It was controlled by the Spanish and the man who first came was from Valparaiso Spain, so that's what it was named (Valley of Paradise.) He named the settlement but it was never oficially founded. All ships to the Americas had to pass through here to refuel, so it used to be the main port but now it's the second largest (San Antonio is the largest.)

Anibal Pinto Plaza was named in 1896 for the president at the time. Cinzano (the recommended restaurant that we sadly missed earlier) is the oldest in the area, built in 1896. There is a music band that Felipe said may be as old as the restaurant. :)

We walked up a street off the square looking at the artwork on the walls. They are often done for free with permission from the building owners. Sometimes supplies are paid for. Graffiti is extensive here, so once a painting is graffitied, the artist often repaints something new.

Felipe told us there is a bike competition (Cerro Abajo) that is insane! Valpo is VERY hilly and steep, and the bike will go down the streets as past as possible to the square, down staircases, over rooftops, jumping over large areas, and through windows. Here is a video example.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xIe6hYAdw_I

There are 27 funiculars in the city, though 8 work. Most are around 100 Chilean Pesos (around 800 CP= $1 USD). We walked to the Queen Victoria Funicular. Queen Victoria visited Valparaiso and was said to have been at the opening of the funicular, however, it opened in 1902 and she died in 1901. So, probably not. 

European immigrants controlled the hills, and this one was mostly English and German. There is a large Lutheran Church on a hill above the top of the funicular and another church. The Catholic Church was not happy about it being built, so they built a larger one higher up. That showed them!

There is a few large wall paintings at the top of the funicular, that you can slide down to (yes there is a large side) inspired by a cartoonist named Lucas. It's a satire of a group of people with animal shapes and faces.

Many of the buildings have bright colors, and we were told it's believed so they are more visible at night. However, Felipe said many drunk people still fall down the stairs anyways.  We saw a sign 'We are not hippies we are happies.' The city is very artistic and bohemian.

Valparaiso became a Unesco World Heritage site in 2003 or so, and then promptly built two large high-rise buildings obscuring some of the view of the water from the high points in the city. We saw a painting by Inti Castro on the wall of a large building. His supplies were paid for by the government (one of the only paintings commissioned by the goverment) and he painted it by rappelling off the building. 

We went to several lookout points to enjoy the city views.

Our hotel and Turri clock

Lutheran Church

We passed through Paseo Gerrasone, which has the oldest funicular built in 1886. It has the House Of Lucas, a museum dedicated to the cartoonist. It was not his house, but is just where the museum is. We were able to view our hotel and the Turri Clock. 

Some of the street art is below:

We saw a house that had been destroyed by fire years ago, and the rubble remained. Houses used to be built of stucco with a layer of cement over them. The streets are narrow and windy, and the fire hydrant was installed years after the fire so the blaze couldn't be contained. This is a down side of the city construction on the hills. The rubble (stone, wood) would have to be removed by hand.

We stopped at a small place that makes 81 kinds of empanadas (Delicas express). I forgot to mention that several dogs followed us during the tour, who knew Felipe. We started with a gorgeous chow, who was replaced by this guy. He followed up almost the entire tour, and did quite well at the empanadas place.

Felipe didn't know why kids were walking around painted, but I caught two.

We continued the tour to Plaza Sotomayor and the dock. Past this plaza is one of the most dangerous parts of the city where robbery is common. Police tell people to leave, and it's a shame as there are some nice old churches. Felipe shared a story of a man who was walking next to an old woman. A policeman came up to him and asked, "do you know who you were walking with?" and he said, "No, an old woman." Apparently she is one of the drink 'kingpen' in the city. 

We saw two fire trucks-- one had hebrew writing and a star of David, and the other had German colors. Apparently firefighters are all volunteers and paid through donations. 

we ended the tour in Pratt port, where we saw cargo and military ships. This is also where cruise ships in season arrive. Someone approached us to offer a group rate for a private boat. Most of the people on the tour declined, but Kim and I agreed to go as well as two others, from Australia. Mia was from Chile and moved at 8 years old to Australia. Tasha, her daughter, is 24. The two were adorable and great fun. Mia speaks Spanish so she translated for us.

We got to see some sea lions, and a couple of military war ships that were there for security during the anniversaries. On the 11th is the anniversary of president Allende being shot and killed, and the 18th is the anniversary of Chilean Independence. It's a shame we fly back on the 18th as there are supposed to be a lot of festivities!!

We walked back to our hotel to get off our feet a bit and catch up since we do have internet. Yay! I will try to add in pictures of Easter Island when I can.

TTFN!!

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