You'd never know me for the morning person i am today! Slow going for sure. I woke at 6 but with only 6 hours of sleep, I went right back to sleep for an hour feeling like I slept as the dead! I needed it. I got a cup of coffee in the room-- instant! Blech. I got my tickets ordered for today and headed down to print but unfortunately was not successful with the one computer downstairs. So I went to the grocery store for some breakfast.
The grocery store is always an interesting event in other countries. I forgot you buy a bag in europe, and I got some rolls, cheese and meats, and for today a greek yogurt and honey as I will eat lunch in three hours. I got some *real* coffee, and what I thought was creamer but think it's condensed milk. I'm excited to make some coffee in the french press in the room! I forgot to check if there is a corkscrew (suppose I should have expected it!) so returned the bottle of italian red, but I'll be back!
I went to the Checkpoint Charlie museum, a few minutes walk from my hotel, which talks about the wall. Checkpoint Charlie was the name given to the walled area by the Western Allies during the cold War, and it was one of the best-known crossing points. It became one of the best-known symbols of the Cold War. In this very small museum you can read the story of the construction of the wall and the politics behind it. You can also read accounts of attempted escapes. The museum has walls with the story outside and inside, even before you enter the museum. it's worth walking through grounds and reading the story, but less worth going inside the museum for the 5E.
One account that stuck with me was that of teenager Peter Fechter, shot and killed trying to escape East Berlin. He was in view of the west, however, they were unable to help him. He lay bleeding to death in full view, and the East Berlin guards did not want to go to him to avoid escalating tensions along the wall. An hour later his body was removed, sparking protests in the west.
You can see the brick pathway that memorializes the lines of the wall right by the museum. I have to say that for an American, seeing this has been an interesting emotional journey. The wall came down in 1989, and I remember hearing about it.. but it was the year I graduated high school and began at college so it went mostly unacknowledged in my life. Being here now, reading the accounts, seeing the wall and the dividing line through a portion of the city has been pretty emotional for me.
Also interesting is the level of recognition for all of the Jews killed here. There are a number of monuments, memorials, museums all dedicated. Though I am Jewish by birth, I have never really connected with the religion, even after years and years of hebrew school and a bat mitzvah. My recent trips to Eastern Europe have sparked a bit of an interest, and a connection, in my heritage. Much of my family ancestors came from this area, however, most have been undocumented and are assumed. I do know of heritage from Poland and Lithuania, however, Germany is somewhat assumed, due to my last name (Glauser.)
I walked the area a bit and took a couple of pictures of the architecture. There aren't many of the beautifully-constructed buildings with carvings and artistic details seen in the rest of europe, and my guess is that it's because so much of this city was destroyed in WWII and quickly rebuilt following. Much of it is industrial-- but not in such a modern way as the buildings now. They appear to have been built in the 60s and 70s and lack a lot of the charm of what I have seen in Europe.
There are a lot of dogs here, and they go everywhere. The same was for Copenhagen, and I saw them on subway and trains which is unusual in the US. It would be nice! I just saw a woman walking two out of my hotel.. another reason to like it here. I have not seen any loose dogs which is also nice, though I did see quite a few in copenhagen walking with an owner by their side with no leash.
I decided to rescue a bottle of wine-- a lovely barolo from Italy which would be rather costly in the States but was only 9E here. I also got some dark chocolate and hazelnuts for a snack, at a cost of almost 11E. It's amazing how inexpensive most things are in the store.. My other purchase was only around 12E.. so total cost around $30 including wine. Not bad! This will give me breakfasts, and snacks/lunch for the rest of the trip, which will be a nice break from eating out all the time.
Upon my return I found a tag on the door that it was being cleaned, so I dropped my stuff off and went to the lobby to wait a few minutes. They said it would be 10 minutes or less which is good! I also printed my tickets for today. After needing some help, it was easy enough! The man at the desk teased me for talking in English with a German name. "Was ist los?" (What is the matter?) Your name is German, yes? But you speak English? I explained that my Deutsche ist nicht so gut aber Ich verstehe (my German is not very good but I understand some!)
Someone from the hotel just came by to see if I would like coffee-- have I mentioned how much I'm enjoying this place?? I did find out that the milk I got is for coffee, as my cup came with a small creamer package of kondensmilch. I suppose you can see my confusion. :) Oh, I can't figure out how to put the card in the elevator, twice getting help from a child there too, but still.. lovely! lol. What a nice hotel this is, and it's in other cities as well.
Another observation is that in most of Europe tipping is not expected/required, however, it appears to be in Berlin. Most of the bills state 'tip is not included'. In talking with Klaus last night, he said a tip is usually rounding (so if a bill is 10,20E then you would pay 11E.)
I met Klaus for lunch and we went to a sushi place not far from the hotel. Yum! It was nice seeing him again, and I enjoyed our conversation. His English is very good-- he learned starting in the third grade. I wish the US did the same. I was sad to leave my Berlin buddy (he's from Dresden, but works in Berlin 3 days a week so knows the area pretty well.) It's much easier to get around with someone who knows their way, and anyone who travels with me know that I have absolutely no sense of direction!
Went to the tv tower to enjoy a lovely view of Berlin. I learned that the machines in the metro do not take visa, nor euro bills larger than 5E. Hmm..I went to four machines trying and hoping, but thankfully a very nice man took pity on me and when I asked him nicely to help me in German, he complied. :) He told me that I could do a 'short ticket' (which I later learned is four stops only and one direction, for 1.5E) to get to Alexanderplatz, and thankfully I had the coins to do so. Dollars here are coins, and the bills start at 5E. It's quite easy to find the tv tower-- look up! Whew. I did go into the station to get some tickets as I figured it would be easier to do. I got two ABC tickets for the longer trip I plan tomorrow, and four AB tickets which are good for one direction and within two hours.
I was told to go to the TV tower around sunset, however, the weather report predicts rain later today and I would rather see it in full sun than in the rain. I planned then to go to the Pergamom planning an hour and a half for the tv tower and the walk to the museum. Let's see how I do on that!
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Wow! The tv tower offered an amazing view of the city. It was quite expensive (17E I think or around $25) but did show a great view of the city. And you can see how large the Tiergarten park is! The tower was opened in 1965 after four years in build, I made my way to the Pergamon and had some time to sit in the gardens nearby before going in. It is 203 meters high and took 40 seconds to reach the top in the open elevator, so you get a good sense of how quickly it moves. one thing I noticed from the top and on the ground actually, is that many of the buildings are in a cluster, with a central area with grass and often playgrounds. The buildings don't look alike and are often an interesting mix around this central courtyard. After googling, I found that this style is integral to Berlin architecture, and is known as courtyard architecture. I saw this in Hacksache Hoefe as well and thought it was interesting.
I walked over to the Pergamon Museum on Museum Island, surrounded by several other museums and close to the Berlin Dome and Cathedral. Wow. I may have found my new favorite museum, in terms of content. It was simply breathtaking. When you first walk in you see the gates of Babylon-- literally: Ishtar Gate of Babylon. Wow. An entire large room is filled with the gates and they are breathtaking. Oh, I will say that given that I'm a person who hates waiting in lines, and the line sign said it was 3 hours to entry, I was VERY glad I got a ticket online. Whew. it was worth it.
Anyways, there are three exhibit areas: Antiquity collection, Islamic Art and Middle East Museum. It ranged from Greek, Roman, Islamic, Assyrian, Sumerian, Babylonian and everything from metalworks, carvings (including a staircase and giant 'room' in an ancient greek temple to a painted room in Aleppo), tapestries.. wow. Apparently there is a huge renovation and the Pergamon Altar will be closed for five years starting this September. Whew. Double Whew. The museum was simply breathtaking.
I wandered back through the streets, seeing many beautiful museums, Humboldt University, Hedwig's Church then to the Gendarmenmarkt by the Deutscher dome and Konzerthaus as well as another beautiful church that I never got the name of. I decided to stop here to enoy the view, and got an aperol spritz. I tried my German, and the woman responded in perfectly-accented British English. Well, points for trying, right?
Berlin has been interesting for me-- a cool approach that is slowly warming. It lacks some of the charm that I have seen in other cities, and the architecture and many people are rather cool and aloof. But when you accept that and move on, there is definitely an energy here that I'm enjoying.
The local radio station is interesting: Joe Cocker, Beatles, Eros Ramazotti, Come on Eileen, Nutbush City (Tina Turner), I love Rock & Roll (Joan Jett), euro disco.. wow, what an eclectic mix!
Ok, I'm absolutely zonked. Around 8 hours of mostly walking around today on already sore feet and I seriously would like to trade them in. I am going to enjoy the hot tub and the lovely robe the hotel gave me and go to bed early.
Tomorrow I go to Potsdam. I usually try to do a day trip with city trips, and this is mine. I met a wonderful woman from Berlin through a friend to practice my German. Well, the german-speaking didn't go so well, but she truly is an amazing woman and i have enjoyed talking with her. She was born in Berlin and told me that she was baptized by a minister to save her from her Jewish heritage. Her parents somehow escaped the typical fate, and they emigrated to the US after WWII. She said she HATED Berlin and Germany, but after a lifetime and returning for her Mother's funeral, she found a way to find peace and forgive. She gave me a great orientation and suggested I go to Potsdam as there is a beautiful palace built similar to Versailles in Paris, and the city is also wonderful I'm so glad I asked at my hotel, as the map I have said to take a certain subway line, however, it is old and there is another I have to take. Whew!
I'm off. Gute Nacht und Auf Wiedersehen!
Sam
ps- backhefe is not cheese or butter, but yeast. Whoops. Always good to look things up when you're not sure what they are! Ptooey! lol.
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