Wednesday, December 20, 2017

Bangkok, Thailand and Bagan, Myanmar

I woke early but it felt good to lay in bed a bit. I'm quite exhausted from the pace but enjoying everything I'm seeing!

I started looking into Thai cooking classes and then remembered, I don't cook! Ha! I do but don't really love it and while it might be fun to see how it's done and go to the market to shop like a local, I'm not sure I'd really remember and would use a cookbook anyways!

Instead, I decided to take a nature break from the concrete jungle to wander around Lumpini park, the 'Central Park" of Bangkok. It's a good size and I wandered for a couple of hours through some ponds with swan boats, lots of picnic areas, a children's outdoor park and recreation area. I took an Uber there.







I forgot to bring water and was thirsty, and after looking around for a while found a picnic area with what looked like a vendor. I said hello in Thai and asked if I could purchase water. He said yes, and then seated me offering me Chinese tea. Too late, I realized this wasn't a vendor at all but a group having a picnic! The man spoke some English and said that they go every day and meet to walk and then to eat lunch. He pointed out that one man was 92 years old! As I looked around, most of them were silver-haired and they were all quite intrigued with the silly American who came to ask for water! A man kept filling my little tea cup (it was the size of a shot glass) and gave me something wrapped in wax paper and said it was sweet. It was covered in what I thought was powdered sugar but it was flour, which was interesting. I took a bite and it was sticky and very sweet.




They were a really cute group and several talked with me through the man who welcomed me. One woman, who is 88!! had been in England and California.

I said my thank yous then headed on to find some water. At the entryway I came in through there was a booth selling water and snacks, and I got a bottle for 8 THB. I went back and sat by the water for a while as it was so tranquil.







I decided to make my way out and wanted to try taking the BTS subway, which interestingly ended up in the top five recommended list on Tripadvisor. There was a station right in the entrance of the park, but it was for the wrong line.

A woman approached me and asked if I needed help, so I told her where I was trying to go. She pointed across the street, but then suggested I take a tuk tuk for 40 BHT to an area that offers very inexpensive suits and dresses custom-tailored. I told her I wasn't interested and thanked her (hell, my bag is about to burst as it is!) She asked if I am on holiday and where I'm from, and I learned after she flashed her badge that she's a policewoman! I had to laugh that she was selling tailored suits.. ha!

I crossed the street, which was like a crazy game of chicken, and searched for the stop, which should be somewhere right across the street. I wandered for a good 30 minutes before finding it with help. I had to go upstairs to a walkway over the street (MUCH easier for crossing!) and went into the station. There were banks in the wall to get tickets but I wasn't sure how to do it and they didn't take bills, so I waited at the place to purchase. She ended up giving me change and pointed me to the place in the wall to purchase. Hmm..

I finally figure it out (with help) and boarded the BTS. It's quite modern and clean. A family with two young kids got on speaking in German- I have heard a good bit of it here. One of the kids raced out as he apparent dropped something, setting off a flurry in the parents as the doors were about to close. I didn't quite understand but there was no mistaking the time! I giggled as did another couple who also apparently spoke German. They spoke some English as well and told me that they got quite sick (stomach) here so were cutting their trip short and leaving today. Poor things! I said my goodbye and got off at the stop to pick pick up the water taxi.




Thankfully they pointed me in the right direction before I hopped off and it was easy to find!

The ferry only cost 15 BHT and we queued in the line to wait. Once it came, we mashed up in there. I met a guy from San Francisco also traveling solo, but he's in Asia for 5-6 weeks. Nice! He was headed to the Khaosan street area where I had dinner last night to have a late lunch and walk around. We said our goodbyes when I got off at Wat Arun, Temple of the Dawn.















Wow. This one lacked the gilding but made up for it with the beautifully detailed times. It was really stunning and quite large. You could climb much of the towers and I scampered up like a monkey, as always, forgetting my fear of heights. I stayed up top for a bit then finally went down, laughing. Yes, I went down on my butt. In a skirt. No shame, no pride! Another couple were giggling as I did too. I didn't feel so badly as a few minutes later I saw a woman doing the exact same thing! ha!

I walked around the complex a bit before heading back to the water taxi. It was only a couple more stops across the river to the stop near my hotel, which was a 5ish minute walk. Very convenient.

I went back to chill a bit but started getting very stuffy. I thought I was allergic to something in the room, which is strange as there isn't much in there. When I leave the room my congestion improves. I decided to go back to Khaosan road as it's very close and has a lot to offer. After a day of rather 'busy belly' I decided to go lighter, and got some noodles and veggies. It was very good. I walked around the market a bit and people watched. Much of the meat and fish was out in the sun for a time so I was glad I stayed with veggies!

I went to bed early as I had to get up early to head to the airport. I grabbed a quick breakfast, enjoying the river view, checked out, called an Uber and went to the Don Mueng airport, the other international airport in Bangkok. Much smaller and less crowded than the other, but the line queued to check in and drop bags was pretty impressive!

I flew to Yangon and seriously thought my head might burst. I could still try to convince myself, but this is a cold. Meh. I sat next to a really nice kid (22!) from Yangon, and really enjoyed talking with him. He's a computer programmer (figures, I attract them!) and took 5 weeks off before looking for a new job. He's considering another company and freelance work. We talked a bit about our countries and running a business. He was so fun to talk with, that we agreed to meet up during my one day in Yangon. He told me of a vegetarian restaurant that he loves, so I'm in! i will reach out to him when I check in to my hotel as he said he may be interested in some sight-seeing as well. Apparently there are no tuk tuks or any subway system in Yangon, only taxis and busses. He said uber is there, but I now finally realize why it's advantageous to get an open cell phone so I can get local sim cards. No internet in Myanmar when I'm not in my hotel. bummer.

I had a 5-hour layover and was kicking around the airport when, for some reason, I decided to go check in for my flight. Interestingly, the 'shuttle' to the other terminal was a small van. I got to the check-in area to find out they cancelled my flight, though I was not notified. Strange as they had previously cancelled my original flight and I rebooked. Of the six flights I had in Asia, five were cancelled and rebooked.

They put me on another flight that left in 90 minutes which is great, however, my guide for tomorrow was to get me at the airport and I had no way to contact him. They allowed me to use their computer so I hopped over the bag drop belt and sat behind the counter to email him. I waited a bit and didn't hear back, but explained the situation.

I went upstairs in the terminal to grab a bite, and found a restaurant with chicken soup with vegetables. I wonder if it has the same healing properties here? :) I got some water and hot chinese tea hoping it might clear me out a bit, but sadly, no. There is no denying it, I'm sick. And the tiny little 3x3 inch thin squares for napkins are really not doing it for me!

I went through the gate to get my plane, and was directed down some stairs outside to a van. The van took me maybe 50 feet to the plane. Interesting! I was able to watch them load my bag which was comforting! The flight was an hour or so but I forgot there is a 30-minute time change. We walked off the plane to a shuttle bus, were driven maybe 100 feet to the terminal where we watched them unload our bags and rolled them to us.

On the flight we were fairly low near the end and I could see at least 20 temples scattered along the way with their gold peaks. Simply amazing and I cannot wait for tomorrow.

I looked around to see if my guide was there and asked a few people if they knew him, but wasn't able to find him so I figured he may not have gotten my message yet. Before I left, I was approached to purchase a foreigner architecture pass for 25k kyat ($18). I didn't remember reading about this but was told it was required and the other people on the plane all got one.

I took a taxi to the hotel, which was maybe a 7-minute drive, for 5k kyat ($3.66). It's a cute little motel-- nothing fancy but got good reviews and seemed convenient and affordable. The girl at the desk doesn't speak English well and the road with restaurants is a 15-minute way in a pretty dark area. I suspect it's safe enough but I'm not really hungry so decided I'll go to bed early instead. My friend on the plane gave me some cold pills, so I popped one and munched on a muffin i got on the plane. I am doing a sunrise to sunset tour tomorrow to see the temples (starting 5:30 am.) I'm excited, and it will be a long day.

When I got logged in I saw an email from him with his phone number. I tried emailing and texting but haven't received a response, so hopefully we are ok for tomorrow am. I feel badly as he sent word he was waiting in the airport for me.

Hopefully a good night's rest will help me to feel better! I am way too  excited about tomorrow to let a cold stop me, but man, it would be nice to get rid of this!!

Sweet dreams.



Monday, December 18, 2017

Bangkok, Thailand


I flew from Laos in the early evening and arrived to Bangkok after a short one-hour flight. The airlines here offer small meals even on short flights, and this one of chicken curry was quite good. The planes are small and quite old, but hey, they work!

The airport was again quite intense, and really crowded. It is difficult for me to get used to the personal space here-- very little! And people seem to walk right at you making a last-minute adjustment to not smash into you, where in the US, people seem to adjust further off so they don't approach so closely. When you stand still, you often have someone right up next to you, in your personal space. It wasn't bad at all in Laos, and somewhat in Krabi and Chiang Mai, but I got it quite a lot in the Bangkok beehive airport.

Very ready to be out of there, I called an Uber. Yes, they are in Bangkok and a nice way to get to your hotel without dealing with the subway at night when you're tired, or a taxi that might rip you off. The 50 minute ride was only around $11 USD. Well worth it. Finding my guest house was a little of a challenge and when I got dropped off, I wasn't entirely sure where it was, but knew it was close. Thankfully I back-tracked a few buildings and there it was!

It seems more of a hotel then a guest house and I was quite pleased. It's nice inside, and the rooms are quite spacious and comfortable. It was recommended by several on a Tripadvisor forum and well-rated. It's the first mattress that isn't a slab of granite and I slept like a dream. Before going to bed, I noticed my feet and lower legs were hurting a bit and tingly, and found I had major cankles-- swelling. I did some research with Dr. Google to find it's likely due to some dehydration. I didn't drink quite as much water yesterday as I have been, so that makes some sense.

I woke this morning really feeling exhaustion set in and not quite ready for the assault of Bangkok, so I stayed in the room until 8:30 and worked on my blog and loading pictures. The call of exploration hit, though, and now I'm on my way.

I walked along the waterfront (which was blocked in areas, requiring walking on the street that runs parallel) to the Royal Palace and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha (Wat Phra Kaew). The complex is enormous and exquisitely beautiful. It was also elbow-to-elbow with people, reaffirming my thought that I really don't like people all that much! Especially those with an entirely different concept of personal space. I suspect I mentioned this already, but I really do like at least an arm's length of space between me and people I don't know, and I bristle a bit if people push into that area. This area was so crowded it was impossible not to, but also I do find culturally that people here do not mind getting closer and often do. It feels like people aim to walk right at you which is a bit frustrating, especially in very busy spaces.































Then I walked down to Wat Pho, Temple of the Reclining Buddha. This is a smaller area but no less beautiful.



















My toots were hurting as I'm apparently dehydrated and have 'cankles' where my feet and ankles are swelling up. I decided to hop in a tuk tuk and learned later that I got robbed (when I got another) but I was happy enough with the fare at the time. Ha! I went to the flower market, which has a vegetable market across the street. I wish I could bottle up the smell! First I walked a bit through the vegetable market and the produce smelled so amazing, fresh and green. There were bags of greens, cucumbers, something that looked like green beans that were close to two feet long and many others. The flower market was equally impressive with the bright colors and the smell.














I was really excited to go to a floating market, and hired another tuk tuk to go to the one in Bangkok, the Talking Chan Floating Market. It took maybe 40 minutes to get there and was, as always, an interesting tuk tuk ride. You can reach out and touch cars and mopeds, literally, as there seems to be the driving laws you might expect in a beehive. It's an intricate, exhilarating and something scary dance. We got to some pretty impressive speeds as well.

We got there to learn that it's closed, and only open on the weekend. Thanks, Google! So, I was a bit of a captive audience and asked the driver to take me back to my hotel. We again negotiated the rate and off we went. The ride wasn't as long this time.

Man, I'm pooped and hit a wall after I think 9 days of nonstop travel and moving. I decided to chill a bit in my room and raise my ankles to try to keep the swelling down (it finally started to, after drinking a couple of bottles of water.) I got caught up posting my pictures on FB, on this blog, and checked in on my work email (I know, I know, but it was quick!) I wrote out my post card to my nephews, which I have kept up with on this trip so far, sending one from each location. Enjoying the chill time honestly and feeling sore, draggy and tired.

I head out to a night market to get some good Thai street food, and my hotel told me there is one that is a ten-minute walk. I'm staying at the New Siam Riverside Guest House and I'm quite pleased with it, boh the location and the room and service. The folks working the desk have been very nice and helpful.









I got some pad thai ($1.50 USD), and a mango sticky rice. The mango was really mushy and didn't taste fresh, so I tossed it. There was a long line at a meat place at the market. They had different cuts and I asked for a small portion of the grilled pork. It looked good but was mostly fat, so after a few bites I tossed it. It just wasn't going to be a great food night! (though the pad thai was good). I did see a lot of other places that were busy and look good that I may try tomorrow. I also got a charging bank for my phone as I have run out of battery taking pictures a few times and do NOT want that to happen in Bagan.

I walked around a bit after I was done but didn't see much appealing so decided to head back for a fairly early night.